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| AquaMaxx BioMaxx Plus BioPellets |
Organic carbon dosing has proven to be an effective method for reducing and controlling nitrates and phosphates in a reef aquarium. One of the latest methods to hit the reef scene is the use of solid polymers, often referred to "biopellets" or "bioplastics". These pellets provide a carbon source and home for bacteria to colonize. These bacteria consume this carbon source and also take in nitrates and phosphates, reducing and removing these nutrients from the water. The bacteria are mostly removed by protein skimming, but a small amount are consumed as food in the aquarium. There's so much mixed information and for as many positive experiences, there seems to be as many negative experiences.
Well, there are many aspects to this type of system, and before implementing this method on YOUR system, there's a lot you should look into. While I have had a positive experience with bio pellets, they are by no means a miracle tool; they won't eliminate the need for water changes and they will not magically fix months of neglect. Remember, nothing good happens in a reef tank overnight. With that said, let me share my experience with the product.
I introduced the biopellet system to my aquarium in August of last year (2011) (You can read a bit about the installation from a previous article, "
Aquarium Update" from August). I used
AquaMaxx Biomaxx Pellets, and put them into a
Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor 150. I removed the two foam sponges, and purchased and installed a set of
screens to prevent the pellets from escaping the reactor. There is a set amount of media to add for your system. Look it up, do some conversions, and remember that number. Got it? Good.
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| TLF Phosban Reactor 150 w/ Biopellets |
For simplicity and round numbers, we're going to say that your system requires 1 cup of biopellets. You will want to add this final amount to your reactor of the period of several weeks. What I would recommend is to start the reactor with 1/4 cup (or 25% of the total amount you need), and add another 1/4 cup about a week later, and do this for the next 2 weeks until the reactor is full. This provides a month for the reactor to slowly take form on your system. During this time, you will want to start inoculating your tank (and the reactor) with a bacterial additive; I used
Brightwell's Microbacter 7. You should do this every day for 2 weeks, and then add a maintenance dose about once every two weeks.
The pellets require a good amount of flow. I would suggest somewhere along the line of 350 gph. While a Maxi-Jet 1200 was previously recommended, I would suggest stepping up to a larger pump (I'm currently using a Mag-Drive 3.5 (offers 350 gph of flow). It's easier to dial back the flow with a ball valve than to deal with not enough flow. Low flow will cause the pellets to clump, either leaving the reactor ineffective or possibly causing problems for your aquarium.
In fact, anecdotal evidence I've come across online shows that control of the flow of the pellets AND flow of the water into the reactor may be key to this process. I would suggest taking a look at the two-part video series from LA Fish Guys. (Be warned, the videos are a little long). I found the information discussed to be informative and provides some valid points in regards to the current use of bioplastics and the reactors we are currently utilizing. The control of the flow of water from the aquarium and the tumbling of the pellets were not related; this is something most current reactors are not taking into consideration. The theory that the tumbling of pellets causes the reduction of waste, and more tumble reduces the reaction further is interesting and something I want to learn more about. You can view the videos at the links below.
Part 1:
LA Fishguys, Bio Pellets, Episode 107 pt1
Part 2:
LA Fishguys, Bio Pellets, Episode 107 pt2
The pellets themselves are not a disposable media that needs to be changed. You will replenish your pellets about once every six months on average. You will simply add more pellets to the existing pellets in the reactor. One helpful tip would be to mark the level of pellets on the side of the reactor when the flow is off. When your pellets are below this level, you can top it off to this line. You can mark it with tape, a marker, whatever.
Feeding your tank rather heavily seems to also be an important aspect to this system. I noticed that with my normal feeding regimen, my corals were not growing and my Zoas seemed to be shrinking. The bioplastics seem to rob the system of nutrients, and drop the levels so low that the coral can starve. To help combat this, you should feed a hefty amount of food to your fish and coral daily. I recently started adding liquid foods to the tank daily in addition to prepared fish foods and frozen foods. This seems to be doing the trick. My coral seem to be growing again.
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| Low nitrates |
Finally, your dosing regiment seems to be somewhat important for use on a biopellet system. One common recommendation is to keep Alkalinity low, at around 8 dkh. All other levels should be maintained at normal acceptable levels. I have also been adding an amino acid supplement, a trace element supplement, and Lugol's solution. While there is no evidence that MY dosing system is doing anything for the biopellet system, it doesn't hurt, and so far my tank is doing well. Keep in mind, that while nitrates are reduced, you still want to preform regular water changes to help replenish trace elements.
Versus manually dosing your tank daily with a liquid carbon source, biopellets provide an alternative system that is supposed to provide many of the same benefits as the liquid systems. Is it better or anything more than snake oil? Well, to be honest, I can't really say. This is just what has worked for me and a many others who share similar stories. Research is lacking to explain exactly why biopellets are providing such a variable response. There isn't a whole lot of information available as to the who's and whats of why it works. With this method, we're at the mercy of trial and error- something I know I'm comfortable with, but understand that the guy running a 300 gallon SPS dominated tank he's had running nicely for 3 years may not want to mess with. This is KEY to why you have to really balance this approach out and decide whether this is right for your system. If it doesn't work out, it can cause problems for your tank if you remove the system too quickly without weaning it off.
If you're thinking of starting this type of system, I urge you to do your research and be willing to give it time. This is not an immediate cure for high nitrate and phosphate levels, and it is not a replacement for regular maintenance and water changes. I've included some bioplastics resources I found useful below.
Recommended Resources:
Until next time...
**Updates & Related Articles: (links add October 2013).
